I have a friend, Allison, that is staying with a family for the year near Sacre Coeur. I called her up this afternoon to see if she wanted to have a coffee and maybe show me around her neighborhood a little bit. I rode the 4 train almost to the end of the line (I start at the far south end, and I went almost all the way north), and then she met me at the station. She took me to her appartment and introduced me to the people she is staying with Thomas and Malika, who are both very nice, and have a fab place to live. Then Allison and I walked around until we found stairs up to Sacre Coeur.
Sacre Coeur translates to Sacred Heart, and is a large white church that is up a huge hill on the north end of Paris. If you are 4 floors or higher in just about any northfacing window you can see the church. We climbed up several sets of stairs and were treated to an incredible view of Paris. The church itself is gorgeous as well. It has gorgeous white domes, and the front is very striking. We didn't go inside, as I was all churched out from Poitiers, but we spent some time enjoying the view.
We had coffee next, at a little cafe that was near the funicular up the hill (which I want to try sometime) and then we wandered around the neighborhood, Montmartre. Montmartre is famous because it is where a lot of famous artists lived at the turn of the century. Among many notables were Toulous Lautrec, Picasso, and Van Gogh. The neighborhood is very cute. It is lots of winding narrow streets that we found hard to naviage, even with a map. We happened upon a lot of cute places though, so it was worth getting lost.
At the base of the big hill is the neighborhood Pigalle, which is the red light district of Paris. We didn't go into the neighborhood, but we did walk west along the outskirts. After a few blocks we came upon the Moulin Rouge, the famous night club. It doesn't look all that spectacular, although the moulin (windmill) on the roof is quite large. We poked our heads in for a minute before grabbing milkshakes at the Quick (fast food place like McDonald's, more abundant than McDonald's too), before parting ways.
It was fun to wander around Montmartre, and I'm pretty sure it's my favorite neighborhood so far. I like the narrow streets and cafes that are on every single corner. Maybe I'll hunt down a good cafe that I can study at this winter!
Pictures:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2009672&l=771b7&id=1599570086
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Sortir
So going out is not necessarily my thing. I like to hang out inside and chill. I did decide, however, that since I am in Paris, I need to make an effort and do more. So I went out last night. It was fun. In France its 18 to be allowed into a bar or club, so we hoped on the metro and headed to La Bastille. There is a great street off of the train that has a ton of different types of bars on it. With a group of 12 (a little too big by half I think) we went to the "Indian Connection." It was nice to hang out in a bar, but because it was Friday night it felt a little crowded, hot, and fake? Only in that a lot of the people that were hanging around were sort of creepers (not from my group). We got drinks (just a coke for me...), and paid way too much. My decision on going out is that Friday is not the best night, and 11pm is too late (got to get happy hour prices). I did have fun, and I would love to explore more of La Bastille (particularly the Bar des Families which several people have recommended).
À Poitiers
Friday was our first excursion for our program. The plan was to go to the city of Poitiers. Poitiers is a city rich in history. It has churches from many different periods in French history, and it has really quaint narrow streets.
We started out very early. I woke up seriously at 5:45 AM. I am not a morning person, it was very difficult to pull myself out of bed. I then headed down to the lobby of my building to meet the rest of my class. On the way I stopped to buy a coffee out of the little machine. I knew it was going to be a good day when I put in 0,50 euro and got 0,70 euro back. So basically I got paid to drink the coffee, it was fab. My group then walked over to the metro station to take the train to Gare Montparnasse. At the train station we met up with our professors and boarded the TGV in the direction of Poitiers. The TGV trains (or Trains à Grande Vitesse) are the French High-Speed trains. It was fun to ride, but we left so early that it was dark out and we couldn't see our surroundings. Once the sun did rise it was nice to look out at the French countryside. The ride was so quick too, just and hour and a half to Poitiers.
The first views of Poitiers are really cool. Its built up a big hill with a fortified wall. The wall was built a long time ago to protect the city from outside attacks. As it has modernized, however, the city has sprawled outside of its walls. The stuff of interest was within the walls, however. We walked up some stairs and down a few narrow streets to get to the square where we were to meet our tour guide. We were about 40 minutes early for our tour so we were allowed to go off and get a café.
I talk a lot about drinking les cafés in Paris, but I think I should make a few comments about them. In France they brew coffee very finely. Like to the point where it is pretty much an espresso. So, when you order un café, you are essentially ordering an espresso. If you want the equivalent of an American Coffee you need to order un café american, which is essentially just a watered down version, and very small. It's hard to find a large sized coffee here, the only place I've seen it is at Starbucks, where it costs 5 euros.
After un café we regrouped and started the Tour. We started out at Église Notre-Dame-la-Grande. It was started in the 11th Century, and completed in the 12th Century, although the chapels were worked on in the 15th and 16th Centuries. The church is built in the Romanesque fashion. It is famous for its façade, which tells many important biblical stories. The people of Poitiers also believe a legend that dates back to the year 1202 when the English laid siege on the city. It was said that every night the mayor would collect the keys to the city gates and sleep with them under his pillow. A clergyman of the city was promised a lot of money by the English if he stole the keys, but when he went to get them from under the mayor's pillow they were gone. The townspeople looked everywhere for them, and ended up searching Notre-Dame-La-Grande. There they found the keys in the hands of the statue of the Virgin Mary. After finding the keys the English were miraculously defeated, and now the Virgin Mary in the church holds a set of keys in honor of that miracle.
The second stop on our tour was the Palais de Justice. This was our only governmental stop on the tour. We were searched as we entered, as the building still serves as a governmental center for the town. A highlight of the searching was when a classment of mine sheepishly pulled a corkscrew out of his pocket at the checkpoint. The guard on duty laughed and replied "mais c'est necessaire..." (but it's necessary). The Palais de Justice houses a room that is very important to French History in the early Middle Ages. At that time Poitiers was the capital of the empire that was held by Eleanor of Aquitaine. The highlight of the building is a great room that was built between 1192 and 1204 which was intended to be the main room of the Palais. It was known for sometime to be the largest room of its kind in all of Europe (50 meters long by 17 wide, very high ceilings). It has had some problems with fires in the past, but many of the original stones are still present. A newer window was put in during the 19th Century, but the grandeur of the room is still present. Outside the Palais there is some other historical points that are important to note. There is a statue of Joan of Arc that commemorates her visit to the Palais at the begin of her quest (or whatever). There is also a wall that was part of an original palais (that was destroyed, more or less) that dates back to the 3rd Century. It sort of looks like a pile of rocks now, but if you study it hard you can see the different layers that are presnet, and the different methods associated with each layer.
Next on the tour was the Cathédrale St-Pierre. The construction was begun in 1162 under the eye of Eleanor of Aquitaine and her husband, Henri Plantagenet (Henri II). Unlike Notre-Dame-La-Grande, this cathedral was built in the more Gothic style, and has many striking similarities to Notre Dame de Paris. Also unlike Notre-Dame-La-Grande, the interior of St-Pierre is much lighter, due to the much larger windows that were used during construction. The grand east window is one of the first stained glass windows in the world, and you can tell because the colors of blue that are utilized are much lighter than later windows. The East wall of the cathedral is notable because the outside has many intense dents in it from centuries of warfare. What is lucky is that the grand eastern window never got hit.
The final stop on the tour was Église Ste-Radegonde. This church was built in the 11th Century, and commemorates a patroness, Radegonde. Radegonde was born a princess, and was eventually forced into marriage with Kind Chlotar, a son of Clovis. She was able to secure her release from the King and became a nun in Poitiers. It is said that she perofrmed numerous miracles and I think the Tour Guide we had talked about dragons. I was so hungry and cold, and maybe a little exhausted that at this point I was having a hard time understanding the tour. Radegonde was buried in the church, but the guide sheepishly told us that during the Great Wars of Religion the protestants raided the church and the bodies that were buried there are all gone. Those darn protestants. That was sort of the running joke of the entire tour.
After the tour our Professors took us to a very nice four course lunch at a restaurant in the old part of town. The first course was an appetizer, and I had a sort of melt thing. It was a fresh piece of slightly toasted (maybe rye?) bread with chevre (goat cheese), apples and bacon. It also came with a small salad that was fresh greens and mandarin oranges. The main dish was chicken breast marinated in a sweet sauce that they said was terryaki, but I think they think terryaki is something else, because I actually liked it. It also came with mashed red potatoes, that were to die for. I picked tiramisu for dessert. It was very creamy and generally really good. After we had coffee. I love the french method of eating lunch and dinner. Take your time, talk to other people, enjoy your food. Instead of slamming it and demanding the check.
We were given some free time afterwards. A group of us went to buy umbrellas at a "2 Euro Store," and then we headed towards the southwest part of the old town. There we poked our heads in another church, Église St-Hilaire, and then we wandered into a large park, Parc de Blossac. In the middle of the park there was a small zoo with some really random animals. They had lots of birds, parrots, geese, and even parakeets. They also had Senegalese goats, which we fed sticks too. At the far end of the park there is an overlook that looks down the large walls into the valley below. It is a gorgeous view of some of the newer parts of Poitiers, and Le Clain (a river). After a quick photo op we headed back to our group, the TGV, and home.
PHOTOS FROM POITIERS:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2009731&l=61385&id=1599570086
We started out very early. I woke up seriously at 5:45 AM. I am not a morning person, it was very difficult to pull myself out of bed. I then headed down to the lobby of my building to meet the rest of my class. On the way I stopped to buy a coffee out of the little machine. I knew it was going to be a good day when I put in 0,50 euro and got 0,70 euro back. So basically I got paid to drink the coffee, it was fab. My group then walked over to the metro station to take the train to Gare Montparnasse. At the train station we met up with our professors and boarded the TGV in the direction of Poitiers. The TGV trains (or Trains à Grande Vitesse) are the French High-Speed trains. It was fun to ride, but we left so early that it was dark out and we couldn't see our surroundings. Once the sun did rise it was nice to look out at the French countryside. The ride was so quick too, just and hour and a half to Poitiers.
The first views of Poitiers are really cool. Its built up a big hill with a fortified wall. The wall was built a long time ago to protect the city from outside attacks. As it has modernized, however, the city has sprawled outside of its walls. The stuff of interest was within the walls, however. We walked up some stairs and down a few narrow streets to get to the square where we were to meet our tour guide. We were about 40 minutes early for our tour so we were allowed to go off and get a café.
I talk a lot about drinking les cafés in Paris, but I think I should make a few comments about them. In France they brew coffee very finely. Like to the point where it is pretty much an espresso. So, when you order un café, you are essentially ordering an espresso. If you want the equivalent of an American Coffee you need to order un café american, which is essentially just a watered down version, and very small. It's hard to find a large sized coffee here, the only place I've seen it is at Starbucks, where it costs 5 euros.
After un café we regrouped and started the Tour. We started out at Église Notre-Dame-la-Grande. It was started in the 11th Century, and completed in the 12th Century, although the chapels were worked on in the 15th and 16th Centuries. The church is built in the Romanesque fashion. It is famous for its façade, which tells many important biblical stories. The people of Poitiers also believe a legend that dates back to the year 1202 when the English laid siege on the city. It was said that every night the mayor would collect the keys to the city gates and sleep with them under his pillow. A clergyman of the city was promised a lot of money by the English if he stole the keys, but when he went to get them from under the mayor's pillow they were gone. The townspeople looked everywhere for them, and ended up searching Notre-Dame-La-Grande. There they found the keys in the hands of the statue of the Virgin Mary. After finding the keys the English were miraculously defeated, and now the Virgin Mary in the church holds a set of keys in honor of that miracle.
The second stop on our tour was the Palais de Justice. This was our only governmental stop on the tour. We were searched as we entered, as the building still serves as a governmental center for the town. A highlight of the searching was when a classment of mine sheepishly pulled a corkscrew out of his pocket at the checkpoint. The guard on duty laughed and replied "mais c'est necessaire..." (but it's necessary). The Palais de Justice houses a room that is very important to French History in the early Middle Ages. At that time Poitiers was the capital of the empire that was held by Eleanor of Aquitaine. The highlight of the building is a great room that was built between 1192 and 1204 which was intended to be the main room of the Palais. It was known for sometime to be the largest room of its kind in all of Europe (50 meters long by 17 wide, very high ceilings). It has had some problems with fires in the past, but many of the original stones are still present. A newer window was put in during the 19th Century, but the grandeur of the room is still present. Outside the Palais there is some other historical points that are important to note. There is a statue of Joan of Arc that commemorates her visit to the Palais at the begin of her quest (or whatever). There is also a wall that was part of an original palais (that was destroyed, more or less) that dates back to the 3rd Century. It sort of looks like a pile of rocks now, but if you study it hard you can see the different layers that are presnet, and the different methods associated with each layer.
Next on the tour was the Cathédrale St-Pierre. The construction was begun in 1162 under the eye of Eleanor of Aquitaine and her husband, Henri Plantagenet (Henri II). Unlike Notre-Dame-La-Grande, this cathedral was built in the more Gothic style, and has many striking similarities to Notre Dame de Paris. Also unlike Notre-Dame-La-Grande, the interior of St-Pierre is much lighter, due to the much larger windows that were used during construction. The grand east window is one of the first stained glass windows in the world, and you can tell because the colors of blue that are utilized are much lighter than later windows. The East wall of the cathedral is notable because the outside has many intense dents in it from centuries of warfare. What is lucky is that the grand eastern window never got hit.
The final stop on the tour was Église Ste-Radegonde. This church was built in the 11th Century, and commemorates a patroness, Radegonde. Radegonde was born a princess, and was eventually forced into marriage with Kind Chlotar, a son of Clovis. She was able to secure her release from the King and became a nun in Poitiers. It is said that she perofrmed numerous miracles and I think the Tour Guide we had talked about dragons. I was so hungry and cold, and maybe a little exhausted that at this point I was having a hard time understanding the tour. Radegonde was buried in the church, but the guide sheepishly told us that during the Great Wars of Religion the protestants raided the church and the bodies that were buried there are all gone. Those darn protestants. That was sort of the running joke of the entire tour.
After the tour our Professors took us to a very nice four course lunch at a restaurant in the old part of town. The first course was an appetizer, and I had a sort of melt thing. It was a fresh piece of slightly toasted (maybe rye?) bread with chevre (goat cheese), apples and bacon. It also came with a small salad that was fresh greens and mandarin oranges. The main dish was chicken breast marinated in a sweet sauce that they said was terryaki, but I think they think terryaki is something else, because I actually liked it. It also came with mashed red potatoes, that were to die for. I picked tiramisu for dessert. It was very creamy and generally really good. After we had coffee. I love the french method of eating lunch and dinner. Take your time, talk to other people, enjoy your food. Instead of slamming it and demanding the check.
We were given some free time afterwards. A group of us went to buy umbrellas at a "2 Euro Store," and then we headed towards the southwest part of the old town. There we poked our heads in another church, Église St-Hilaire, and then we wandered into a large park, Parc de Blossac. In the middle of the park there was a small zoo with some really random animals. They had lots of birds, parrots, geese, and even parakeets. They also had Senegalese goats, which we fed sticks too. At the far end of the park there is an overlook that looks down the large walls into the valley below. It is a gorgeous view of some of the newer parts of Poitiers, and Le Clain (a river). After a quick photo op we headed back to our group, the TGV, and home.
PHOTOS FROM POITIERS:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2009731&l=61385&id=1599570086
Thursday, October 2, 2008
A Little More Than Is Normal
Today was a lot of things thrown into one thing. It started out like a normal day. I went to the Center for class at 10 am, and then was finished with lecture at 12:15. We had another session at 4:00 so a large group of us decided to explore the Centre Georges Pompidou during out long break. We took the metro to Châtelet. At this stop there is a massive mall. The mall is actually underground, which we didn't realize at first. We at lunch at a fast food place that was way too overpriced. I spent 3,50 euro and all I got was a small drink and small fries. If you convert that to American it would be like 5 bucks! You could do that on the dollar menu at McDonald's for two bucks, easy. I'm sure the French designed the prices at these places because they know that its difficult for Americans to find food they like, so they figure we'll spend a lot. We had to ask directions a few times but we found a way out of the mall, and towards the Centre Pompidou.
The Centre Pompidou is a very large buidling. It's also designed to look inside out, so when you walk up to it you can see all of the outside pipes exposed, and the escalators are on the outside too. The museum houses a lot of contemporary work, leaving off where the impressionists that are displayed at the Musée d'Orsay (another museum I'd like to see, maybe next week?). My favorite part of the museum was the fauvism display. Fauvism was a movement that grew out of the impressionist movement. Fauvists utilized bright colors and strong, yet small brush strokes. My favorite fauvist is Henri Matisse, and they had two early Matisse paintings on display. My favoirte of the two was of the Pont St Michel which is near Notre Dame Cathedral. There is a lot of other stuff in the Centre that is really cool. They have a lot of Picassos and a lot of very interesting, and baffling sculptures created from some of the strangest things you'd ever see.
After the Centre Pompidou we had to head back to the Chicago Center. We had a wine and cheese tasting that the Center had organized to the french language students. The tasting was conducted by a real conisseur. He taught us how to look at, smell, and taste different types of wine. He also taught us about the importance of the pairings of cheese he selected. Most of the pairings were based on similar region, although some were more reliant on taste. Overall I prefered the white wines that we tasted over the reds, but I'm not a big fan in general. I loved all of the cheeses, but I've been tasting weird cheeses at Whole Foods since it first opened in Madison forever ago. It was fun, and it was nice to meet with some of the other french language students.
The last thing on the agenda for the evening was to meet with our conversation assistants. This is something that our Center has set up for us as an opportunity to practice speaking french in a non-academic setting. My conversation assistant, Marie-Christine, took my small group (me, Caroline and Benna) to a small cafe not far from the Centre Pompidou. It was called Carpe Diem, and it was very cozy with a jazzy influence. I had a coffee (decaf, it was after 7 by then). It was quaint, and it was fun to talk with Marie-Christine and learn about growing up in Paris. She was also very interested in what its like to live in the States, so it was fun to try and explain the differences. Next week she is going to take us out for tapas at a Spanish restaurant she knows, it should be great.
Tomorrow I have to wake up at 5:40 to go to Poitiers! I'm super stoked, we're going to go see a lot of old stuff, and I get to ride the high-speed train.
The Centre Pompidou is a very large buidling. It's also designed to look inside out, so when you walk up to it you can see all of the outside pipes exposed, and the escalators are on the outside too. The museum houses a lot of contemporary work, leaving off where the impressionists that are displayed at the Musée d'Orsay (another museum I'd like to see, maybe next week?). My favorite part of the museum was the fauvism display. Fauvism was a movement that grew out of the impressionist movement. Fauvists utilized bright colors and strong, yet small brush strokes. My favorite fauvist is Henri Matisse, and they had two early Matisse paintings on display. My favoirte of the two was of the Pont St Michel which is near Notre Dame Cathedral. There is a lot of other stuff in the Centre that is really cool. They have a lot of Picassos and a lot of very interesting, and baffling sculptures created from some of the strangest things you'd ever see.
After the Centre Pompidou we had to head back to the Chicago Center. We had a wine and cheese tasting that the Center had organized to the french language students. The tasting was conducted by a real conisseur. He taught us how to look at, smell, and taste different types of wine. He also taught us about the importance of the pairings of cheese he selected. Most of the pairings were based on similar region, although some were more reliant on taste. Overall I prefered the white wines that we tasted over the reds, but I'm not a big fan in general. I loved all of the cheeses, but I've been tasting weird cheeses at Whole Foods since it first opened in Madison forever ago. It was fun, and it was nice to meet with some of the other french language students.
The last thing on the agenda for the evening was to meet with our conversation assistants. This is something that our Center has set up for us as an opportunity to practice speaking french in a non-academic setting. My conversation assistant, Marie-Christine, took my small group (me, Caroline and Benna) to a small cafe not far from the Centre Pompidou. It was called Carpe Diem, and it was very cozy with a jazzy influence. I had a coffee (decaf, it was after 7 by then). It was quaint, and it was fun to talk with Marie-Christine and learn about growing up in Paris. She was also very interested in what its like to live in the States, so it was fun to try and explain the differences. Next week she is going to take us out for tapas at a Spanish restaurant she knows, it should be great.
Tomorrow I have to wake up at 5:40 to go to Poitiers! I'm super stoked, we're going to go see a lot of old stuff, and I get to ride the high-speed train.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
St-Arnoult-En-Yvelines
So I really really want to go to the start of Paris-Tours (pro bike race) on the 12th. Problem is, I have no idea to get there. The start is not in Paris, it's actually in a town called St-Arnoult-En-Yvelines. The only way to get there is a commuter bus, that does not appear to run on Sundays. I'm debating just taking the train to the end of the line (10 kms away from the town) and hoping I can find my way the rest of the way (maybe a cab?). Any ideas?
Life At The Chicago Paris Center
So it's been a few days since I've started classes, and I must say I really like going to the Paris Center. It may be a 30 minute metro odyessey to get there, but its very chill. I have my history class from 10-12:15 Monday through Thursday, and then on Mondays and Wednesedays I have a French Class from 1:30-3:00. I also have lots of sessions with teaching assistants to work on my grammar and my spoken language. On Fridays I have excursions to places of interest, most of which are topical to what we are studying in class. For example, Friday we are going to Poitiers, a city that has churches from like 500 AD.
A typical school day starts at 8:30. I wake up, make a cup of instant coffee, and get myself together for the day. I leave my chambre at 9am sharp (or as close as I can get) and head out the door, in the direction of the RER stop. What's been the case the last few days is that I run into someone on my way, or on the platform of the RER Train, so I'm never going alone. We take the RER Train four stops north to St. Michel-Notre Dame. If I got off and went outside I would be along the Seine, across from me, Notre Dame Cathedral. However, I don't leave the station, I switch from the B to the C Train and head south along the River to the stop at Bibliotheque Francois Mitterand. There I have a short five minute walk to the Paris Center.
I arrive at about 9:45, sometimes earlier. When I have time I might stop and buy a coffee or croissant at the cafeteria at Paris Universitaire 7-Denis Diderot. My first class of the day is at 10. It's French History. We sit in a small room and discuss the readings we had the night before. Most of the readings are historical texts written by people that were important at the time. For example, for the first class we read a work by Cesar that was a description of the Gaulois, people that would eventually become the French. After class its lunchtime. I'm trying to make an effort to bring my own lunch, to save some euros. I pack leftovers from the night before. Today, for example, I had spaghetti. If I don't have a lunch I might walk over to the cafeteria at Diderot, or a local cafe. We have an hour and fifteen minutes to eat.
On Tuesdays we can go home at this point, other days we might have French. French class is intended to help us improve our language skills. My entire program is conducted in french. From signing in to my building, to the Tour I was given, to asking where I can go to the restroom. I have to try and do as much of it as I can in French. The class then, is intended to help us improve our language skills, particualarly in the academic setting.
After French I am done for the day. If I need groceries I might stop by the Monoprix which is right outside the RER station, or else I might go to the library at Diderot to study. Otherwise I jump on the train and head home. On a day with French I usually get home around 4:00. It's a long day, but its nice. The Center is a good place to learn, with a very laid back atmosphere. I like that its not right where I live. There is no sense of doom hanging around. I usually have dinner at about 6:30 in the evening. I've been trying to make my own food. I'll make a large pot of spaghetti and then store the leftovers. I can make it last a few days, so I don't have to cook again for awhile. In the evening I do my homework and then go to bed.
On days without French I try to explore the city a little bit. Yesterday I went for a 45 minute walk, ending up in the neighborhood of Montparnasse. I keep my eyes open when I walk around, trying to find places I want to go back too, particularly cafes and restaurants.
And always, or at least every other day, on my way home I stop at my little boulangerie and pick up a baguette. Its less than a euro, and if you go at the right times then they are still warm.
A typical school day starts at 8:30. I wake up, make a cup of instant coffee, and get myself together for the day. I leave my chambre at 9am sharp (or as close as I can get) and head out the door, in the direction of the RER stop. What's been the case the last few days is that I run into someone on my way, or on the platform of the RER Train, so I'm never going alone. We take the RER Train four stops north to St. Michel-Notre Dame. If I got off and went outside I would be along the Seine, across from me, Notre Dame Cathedral. However, I don't leave the station, I switch from the B to the C Train and head south along the River to the stop at Bibliotheque Francois Mitterand. There I have a short five minute walk to the Paris Center.
I arrive at about 9:45, sometimes earlier. When I have time I might stop and buy a coffee or croissant at the cafeteria at Paris Universitaire 7-Denis Diderot. My first class of the day is at 10. It's French History. We sit in a small room and discuss the readings we had the night before. Most of the readings are historical texts written by people that were important at the time. For example, for the first class we read a work by Cesar that was a description of the Gaulois, people that would eventually become the French. After class its lunchtime. I'm trying to make an effort to bring my own lunch, to save some euros. I pack leftovers from the night before. Today, for example, I had spaghetti. If I don't have a lunch I might walk over to the cafeteria at Diderot, or a local cafe. We have an hour and fifteen minutes to eat.
On Tuesdays we can go home at this point, other days we might have French. French class is intended to help us improve our language skills. My entire program is conducted in french. From signing in to my building, to the Tour I was given, to asking where I can go to the restroom. I have to try and do as much of it as I can in French. The class then, is intended to help us improve our language skills, particualarly in the academic setting.
After French I am done for the day. If I need groceries I might stop by the Monoprix which is right outside the RER station, or else I might go to the library at Diderot to study. Otherwise I jump on the train and head home. On a day with French I usually get home around 4:00. It's a long day, but its nice. The Center is a good place to learn, with a very laid back atmosphere. I like that its not right where I live. There is no sense of doom hanging around. I usually have dinner at about 6:30 in the evening. I've been trying to make my own food. I'll make a large pot of spaghetti and then store the leftovers. I can make it last a few days, so I don't have to cook again for awhile. In the evening I do my homework and then go to bed.
On days without French I try to explore the city a little bit. Yesterday I went for a 45 minute walk, ending up in the neighborhood of Montparnasse. I keep my eyes open when I walk around, trying to find places I want to go back too, particularly cafes and restaurants.
And always, or at least every other day, on my way home I stop at my little boulangerie and pick up a baguette. Its less than a euro, and if you go at the right times then they are still warm.
Sunday Afternoon Monument Crawl
Sunday afternoon I woke up later, way later than I wanted to. I guess that can only be attributed to jet lag. The plan for the day was to take myself around to a lot of the more famous monuments (tourist attractions) here in Paris. The intention was that if I went to these places now, I wouldn't get all silly about them later. We'll see if that works.
The plan was to hit the Eiffel Tower first. The RER C Train that I was on, however had different intentions for me. It stopped, and then the power shut off at Les Invalides. I decided that since I wasn't that far from the Eiffel Tower I'd just get off there. I'm glad I did. Les Invalides is where Napoleon is buried. It was originally built as a military hospital, but now it houses a variety of things, including Napoleon's tomb and several museums. I walked up to it from the North. The building is incredible. Its huge, and old, and the stone work is fabulous. When I got up to the main gates I went in. I was a bit confused as to whether a ticket was necessary, so I was a bit discreet. I wandered into a massive courtyard/square-like enclosure. There were windows pointing down on it from all directions, and the sides were lined with old canons. At the south end there is a large statue of Napoleon standing in a window. I passed through the courtyard and stuck my head into a large chapel. It was the original chapel built for the hospital, and it has a gorgeous old organ. I stepped out because I wasn't sure if I was supposed to be in there, and headed out the south entrace of the building towards the Eiffel Tower.
Getting to the Eiffel Tower was simple. You could see it rising up to the west! I walked in that general direction, coming upon the Champs de Mars after a few blocks. The Champs de Mars is a large park that is built to one side of the Eiffel Tower, with long grassy areas. On Sunday there was a large kids festival there. I didn't stick around, but I did see a bit of a karate presentation. When I came upon the Eiffel Tower I was struck by the size of the crowds, and the structure. I had read ahead of time that taking the stairs is much cheaper, and gives you a bit more freedom to move around. The line was a lot shorter too. I bought a billet for 3,10 euros, and started the ascension. Um, the Eiffel Tower is a lot taller than it looks. By the time I hit the first floor I was exhausted. I wandered a bit around the interior portions. I'd heard that there was a McDonald's in the Eiffel Tower. I was picturing golden arches and the works. But I didn't see anything of the sort. There was a large cafe but it didn't stop to look. The view from the first floor was impressive. Its well above tree-line, and most buildings in the city. You could see for miles in every direction. I picked out a few famous monuments. Particularly clears were Sacre Coeur and the Arc de la Defense. After about 20 minutes I continued up the stairs. It was even worse. Higher, and steeper I went. They keep a tally of how many stairs you've climbed along the stairs. I stopped looking at 660. The second floor was just as amazing as the first. Buildings were a bit smaller, but you could see even further. I was lucky and went on a clear day too. From the second floor I could clearly see the Arc de Triomphe, something I hadn't been able to see on the first floor. Up there I went in the gift shop. I figured I needed something to commemorate my long climb. I bought a small Eiffel Tower statue for 3 euro. I later saw vendors selling them for 1 on the street, but I like mine because I climbed up to get it. I was going to push on to the very top, but I decided not too. Partly because you have to take a lift, and the line was very long, and partly because I was exhausted. Either way I'll probably be back. The descent was a lot better than the ascent, but I was surprised to see how far I'd gone.
After exiting the Eiffel Tower I headed towards Tocadero. I had read that the best views of the Eiffel Tower are from the top of the stairs of Tocadero, and I think what I read is right. It was fabulous. While there I bought a crepe from a vendor. It was delicious.
The next stop was the Arc de Triomphe. I walked about eight blocks to get there from Tocadero. The Arc de Triomphe is situated in the middle of the scariest roundabout I have ever seen. Luckily they have a tunnel to get to it. I wandered around the circle for about ten minutes. If you don't pay to go up to the top of the Arc, or in the museum, all you can really do is admire the stone work and the tomb of the unknown soldier. If you look towards the south east of the Arc you can see down the Champs Elysees. It is a very busy street, and famous for shopping. It was also my next stop. I walked down it all the way to the Place de Concorde. The Champs Elysees is impressive, but in the last ten years it has become relatively tourist-ified. Much of the old charm has been lost due to the high density of people that are now all over the streets. At the opposite end from the Arc de Triomphe is the Place de Concorde. Here is situated a larged obelisk that was a gift from Egypt. It is very cool, and it actually has carvings on it explaining how the Egyptians raised it to its full height. Going here was important for me because it is a very decisive point in the criterium that the Tour de France races on the Champs Elysees. There is a sweeping bend here, and many attacks start right at that point. I thought it would be cool to see the terrain in person.
If you continue in the same direction, away from the Place de Concorde you will find yourself in the Jardin des Tuileries. This is the Jardin that was built to accompany the old royal palace, which is now the Louvre. The Jardin is very pretty, and it was crawling with tourists. Its a nice walk, but I probably wouldn't pick it as a place to read or do work. Maybe a picnic. In the middle of the Jardin is the Arc de Carrousel. This Arc is smaller than the Arc de Triomphe but if you turn away from the Louvre and look through it you can see the Arc de Triomphe, and past that, the Arc de la Defense. They are all three lined up directly. My last stop was the outside of the Louvre. I figured it was a good terminus, because there is a metro station nearby, and its at the end of the Jardin des Tuileries. I didn't get too close, but I did get a good view of the glass pyramid. I don't care what anyone else says, I think it looks really strange where it is. Enough said.
Exhausted I headed home with a lot of pictures, and a great appreciation for Paris. Now I think I can go near these places and act cool... hopefully?
http://www.new.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2009651&l=0c233&id=1599570086
http://www.new.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2009672&l=771b7&id=1599570086
The plan was to hit the Eiffel Tower first. The RER C Train that I was on, however had different intentions for me. It stopped, and then the power shut off at Les Invalides. I decided that since I wasn't that far from the Eiffel Tower I'd just get off there. I'm glad I did. Les Invalides is where Napoleon is buried. It was originally built as a military hospital, but now it houses a variety of things, including Napoleon's tomb and several museums. I walked up to it from the North. The building is incredible. Its huge, and old, and the stone work is fabulous. When I got up to the main gates I went in. I was a bit confused as to whether a ticket was necessary, so I was a bit discreet. I wandered into a massive courtyard/square-like enclosure. There were windows pointing down on it from all directions, and the sides were lined with old canons. At the south end there is a large statue of Napoleon standing in a window. I passed through the courtyard and stuck my head into a large chapel. It was the original chapel built for the hospital, and it has a gorgeous old organ. I stepped out because I wasn't sure if I was supposed to be in there, and headed out the south entrace of the building towards the Eiffel Tower.
Getting to the Eiffel Tower was simple. You could see it rising up to the west! I walked in that general direction, coming upon the Champs de Mars after a few blocks. The Champs de Mars is a large park that is built to one side of the Eiffel Tower, with long grassy areas. On Sunday there was a large kids festival there. I didn't stick around, but I did see a bit of a karate presentation. When I came upon the Eiffel Tower I was struck by the size of the crowds, and the structure. I had read ahead of time that taking the stairs is much cheaper, and gives you a bit more freedom to move around. The line was a lot shorter too. I bought a billet for 3,10 euros, and started the ascension. Um, the Eiffel Tower is a lot taller than it looks. By the time I hit the first floor I was exhausted. I wandered a bit around the interior portions. I'd heard that there was a McDonald's in the Eiffel Tower. I was picturing golden arches and the works. But I didn't see anything of the sort. There was a large cafe but it didn't stop to look. The view from the first floor was impressive. Its well above tree-line, and most buildings in the city. You could see for miles in every direction. I picked out a few famous monuments. Particularly clears were Sacre Coeur and the Arc de la Defense. After about 20 minutes I continued up the stairs. It was even worse. Higher, and steeper I went. They keep a tally of how many stairs you've climbed along the stairs. I stopped looking at 660. The second floor was just as amazing as the first. Buildings were a bit smaller, but you could see even further. I was lucky and went on a clear day too. From the second floor I could clearly see the Arc de Triomphe, something I hadn't been able to see on the first floor. Up there I went in the gift shop. I figured I needed something to commemorate my long climb. I bought a small Eiffel Tower statue for 3 euro. I later saw vendors selling them for 1 on the street, but I like mine because I climbed up to get it. I was going to push on to the very top, but I decided not too. Partly because you have to take a lift, and the line was very long, and partly because I was exhausted. Either way I'll probably be back. The descent was a lot better than the ascent, but I was surprised to see how far I'd gone.
After exiting the Eiffel Tower I headed towards Tocadero. I had read that the best views of the Eiffel Tower are from the top of the stairs of Tocadero, and I think what I read is right. It was fabulous. While there I bought a crepe from a vendor. It was delicious.
The next stop was the Arc de Triomphe. I walked about eight blocks to get there from Tocadero. The Arc de Triomphe is situated in the middle of the scariest roundabout I have ever seen. Luckily they have a tunnel to get to it. I wandered around the circle for about ten minutes. If you don't pay to go up to the top of the Arc, or in the museum, all you can really do is admire the stone work and the tomb of the unknown soldier. If you look towards the south east of the Arc you can see down the Champs Elysees. It is a very busy street, and famous for shopping. It was also my next stop. I walked down it all the way to the Place de Concorde. The Champs Elysees is impressive, but in the last ten years it has become relatively tourist-ified. Much of the old charm has been lost due to the high density of people that are now all over the streets. At the opposite end from the Arc de Triomphe is the Place de Concorde. Here is situated a larged obelisk that was a gift from Egypt. It is very cool, and it actually has carvings on it explaining how the Egyptians raised it to its full height. Going here was important for me because it is a very decisive point in the criterium that the Tour de France races on the Champs Elysees. There is a sweeping bend here, and many attacks start right at that point. I thought it would be cool to see the terrain in person.
If you continue in the same direction, away from the Place de Concorde you will find yourself in the Jardin des Tuileries. This is the Jardin that was built to accompany the old royal palace, which is now the Louvre. The Jardin is very pretty, and it was crawling with tourists. Its a nice walk, but I probably wouldn't pick it as a place to read or do work. Maybe a picnic. In the middle of the Jardin is the Arc de Carrousel. This Arc is smaller than the Arc de Triomphe but if you turn away from the Louvre and look through it you can see the Arc de Triomphe, and past that, the Arc de la Defense. They are all three lined up directly. My last stop was the outside of the Louvre. I figured it was a good terminus, because there is a metro station nearby, and its at the end of the Jardin des Tuileries. I didn't get too close, but I did get a good view of the glass pyramid. I don't care what anyone else says, I think it looks really strange where it is. Enough said.
Exhausted I headed home with a lot of pictures, and a great appreciation for Paris. Now I think I can go near these places and act cool... hopefully?
http://www.new.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2009651&l=0c233&id=1599570086
http://www.new.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2009672&l=771b7&id=1599570086
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